India Couture Week 2024 , hosted by Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI),  started in New Delhi and showcased 14 Etsy showcase designs within 8 days of the event presenting some of the top brands in India fashion industry. Elaborating on the trends for this event , it revealed an amalgamation of the traditional Indian art and the contemporary essence with some more formal western wear that symbolizes India in today’s world.

Asal & Mard By Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla

The shows which kicked off the India Couture week 2024 for Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s were “Asal and Mard”, with fabrics and designs reflecting the traditional look with the contemporary style. ‘Asal Bride’ was about spiritual continuation of traditions with contemporary twist and ‘Regal Groom of Mard’ was about dramatic work and voice adorning the groom’s clothes with prominence. Among the dresses, Lehengas in red, gold, green, and pearl colors were having Gota and Zardosi work, which offers the hue of a typical Indian marriage. The marvelous performances of Navneet Kaur and Deep Raj attracted skaters Wamiqa Gabbi and Taha Shah Badussha. The show was accompanied by elegant jewelry by G K Chudiwala, a haveli design set and peppy music making it a truly spectacular glamorous event to be remembered with style!

Isha Jajodia’s ROSEROOM

 

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The second day saw presentations by Isha Jajodia’s Roseroom which showcased the collection called ‘Art of Eternity’ – a tale of love etched in lace and delicate woven fabrics. Inspired from the French Architecture this collection was a mix of heritage styled and empowered women. Tender, lace accents, lush silk and organza, and Flora and Fauna elements contributed to the fairy tale style. The colour scheme in question was white, black, ivory, gold; capes and corsets were particularly in focus. Jacqueline Fernandes, who sizzled as the showstopper, wore a black gown that had corset detailing, sweetheart neckline, and netted cape.

Suneet Varma

The collection titled, “Nazm” by designer Suneet Varma was inspired by the traditional Romance of vintage India. Establishing a synthesis of vintage tradition and modern allure, the collection used hand embroidery with accent appliqué on silky fabrics of ante-metallic, pastel organza and fabulous, fluid chiffons. It is possible to see that Varma draws inspirations from the retro Bollywood films and also has contemporary elements in his creations that embody luxury of Indian fashion.

Siddartha Tytler

Siddartha Tytler has used actual Rome as his muse for his series, Caligula’s Feast, which was all about indulgence. The clothing line consisted of ruby, emerald and royal blue outfits accompanied by.gold and gunmetal touches. In both the traditional as well as the modern collections, elements such as crystals, sequins, rhinestones, and fur were incorporated into creations for that heightened glamorous look. Malaika Arora and Rahul Khanna made heads turn in black as they sizzled in the latest fashion donning black formal outfits on the ramp.

Kunal Rawal

Here, let me define one of the most interesting and outstanding design concepts: Kunal Rawal’s collection called “Sehra”, at India Couture week 2024 encapsulated the idea of traditional Indian wedding outfits but with the accent on modernity and luxury. The runaway gave an amalgamation of silks, brocades, bandhani and detailed thread work as is synonymous to the brand masculinity and femininity. It also placed traditional weaves on men’s outing outfits with designer Anaita Shroff Adajania sashaying on the ramp in menswear and actor Aditya Roy Kapur marking the end to the show in modern bandhgala and sherwani.

Dolly J

“La Vie En Rose”, by Dolly J was a collection, a mix of classical,beautiful, chic and the modernity of fine craftsmanship. The jewel tones were used to create the essence of beauty that stayed without an end, the embroideries and flowers were brilliant and detailed. Sonakshi Sinha brought the show down in a pastel pink off shoulder gown with tulle and crystal work which captured the Victorianess of the collection.

JJ Valaya

JJ Valaya’s Muraqqa was yet another splendid bridal fantasy, which was a mix of Ottoman’s details and P Persian carpets and Mughal inlays. In this collection we saw hand woven micro geometric silks, velvets and special use of embroideries which was more or less true to Valaya’s noble but traveler’s aesthetic sense. The latter was seen as a continuation of the series on the artistry of Isfahan, Istanbul and Delhi where the theme involved an elaborate use of red and heavy embroidery.

Amit Aggarwal

Amit Aggarwal’s collection, ‘Antevorta’ – Antevorta is the Greek goddess of future and the relation between time and the universe was the underlying theme of the India Couture Week 2024. The collection was based on a circle of time and sustainable fashion where new pieces were created from Banarasi sarees which were owned and given a new twist. Future metallic shades, glamor head accessories, balance of structured and flowy silhouettes mixed loosely with feminine lines had an emphasized accent of the futurism in couture.

Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra’s Nargis collection was about fine workmanship and floral patterns. Payal’s bridal dresses were beautifully inspired by a Mughal garden and had motifs like peacock and pomegranate flower and peonies These motifs were done individually by over 1200 embroidery artisans. Lisa Ray, who is incredibly beautiful and elegant, first impressed the spectators being dressed in a gold and ivory gown, although being rather intensive, are simultaneously softly rendered, and the whole array of the clothes illustrates Mishra’s close-twined emotions to nature and culture.

Jayanti Reddy

Jayanti Reddy showcased her collection “Evocative Nawabi Canvas” which is wholly influenced from Hyderabad’s vivacious culture. The show had a total of nearly 40 different outfits, where prints and handwork used in ethnic Indian clothing were incorporated into modern wedding wear. Aditi Rao Hydari walked in as the showstopper wearing a sequined peplum blouse and pleated sharara which gave her the bewitching beauty of the Nawabs.

Gaurav Gupta Couture

Gaurav Gupta’s collection is named “Arunodaya” which literally means the early breaking of dawn or in other words the boundless possibilities of the first streak of dawn. In the collection there was embroidery where it began to imply Indian Zardozi and the geometry of surreal lines and structures. The shirt’s color scheme resembled a morning sky in terms of color shading of white and light pearl, blue, pink and mauve. Khushi Kapoor also looked gorgeous in the last outfit, which was a sand coloured fitted mermaid lehenga having Zardozi work, beads and pearls.

Rimzim Dadu

Modern ethnic sensibility was captured in eloquent designs at Rimzim Dadu’s “Stucco” which was like a wonderland of textures interacting with Renaissance period inspirations. Based on the themes of the collection one could highlight the specific wire cording techniques, beadwork and the embroidering which created dramatic architectural associations. Printed fringed dresses within the same fabrics were also in the list along with fringed blouses and cocktail lehengas, Sobhita Dhulipala looked beautiful while closing the show in white fringed skirt with bandeau blouse.

Tarun Tahiliani

There was “Otherworldly”, by Tarun Tahiliani, which successfully merged the past with present’s comfort factor, new age master applications of traditional approaches like kashidakari, mukaish and chikankari included. Arguably the most traditional collection, the show was still contemporary with Scott Walker and the peel group’s set list that comprised over one hundred looks that included elaborate embroidery and beading. There were ethnic wear giving importance to menswear such as sherwanis, bandhgalas, kurtas with churidars and trousers in the same shade.

Falguni Shane Peacock

Falguni Shane Peacock’s show ‘Rang Mahal’ was their magnum opus for the fashionable bride which was a vibrant coming together of bold colours, artsy aesthetics and perfect prints. It had opium and damask silks, imperial and crinkled velvets, and sophisticated embroidery work with some young artisan woven saris forming the basis of the collection capsule. Vicky Kaushal and Rashmika Mandanna brought the occasion to a conclusion in ivory and gold, being symbolic of great Indian traditionalism.

India Couture Week 2024 has undoubtedly established itself as a key event in the international fashion calendar, an absolute must-see platform to witness the glorious heights of Indian ingenuity. Each designer having a story behind their collection, the week was a perfect synthesis of the modern and the traditional, it was truly ‘Indian Fashion Week’. The embellishments combined with elegant fabrics, the mature shapes and the modernism of the pieces were not only the contemporary representation of the history of the Indian fashion industry but also the epitome of its future.

Written by: Samanvitha Rao