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Stone setting in jewelry making

Setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery requires skilled accuracy. Precision is the deciding factor as it entails the final look of the jewellery piece. Jewellery setting is the process which by which gemstones and diamonds are held in place within a metal. The role of a jewellery setter is to ensure that each stone is secured gently without damaging them and the metal if pressure is exerted.

The process to of setting gemstones and diamonds first starts with the raw piece of unfinished jewellery to be placed on a surface that provides grip to the metal. It helps to secure it in place for the setter to set the gemstones or diamonds with precision. The accuracy plays and important role as it impacts the jewellery’s finishing. Hence expert setters demand high price.

The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Setting gemstones and diamonds

The different types of Setting gemstones and diamonds style are:

Pavé Setting
The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Single row Pavé Setting

The Pavé Setting is a honeycomb style and requires the jewellery setter to handle the precious stones and metal very delicately. In this process since the stones are placed closely it makes it difficult to set them perfectly.

Channel Setting
The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Bar Channel Setting

In Channel setting the precious stones are placed beside each other. It is much stronger as there are metal bars at the bottom which prevents the stones from getting undone. This ensures that the gems are held in their position fastened from the edges.

Bezel Setting 
The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

The setting can make the stone appear larger

In the Bezel setting a thin band of metal known as the bezel secures the gem in place. This style of Setting gemstones and diamonds gives the impression that each gemstone has a gold border and is very popular. The Bezel setting is striking and gives the jewels a luxurious look.

Prong Setting

The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Shared Prong Setting

Prongs also known as the thin wires of the metal hold the gemstones securely in place. The Prong setting style should be used with extreme caution especially while working with diamonds as they are harder and can result to the wearing away of the prongs eventually.

Flush Setting
The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Flush set ring

In the Flush setting, each stone seems to be held within the metal, however it is still secured in place. This is commonly observed in rings, bands, bangles etc.

Pressure Setting
The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Pressure set diamond cluster

The Pressure setting also known as precious setting is a style where gems are placed so closely that it makes it difficult to tell if they are secured by metal. It is a difficult setting style to master. The stones are placed very close that the appear as a solitaire.

Tension Setting
The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

Tension set with sapphire stone

The tension setting is a common style for setting of gems and diamonds. The metal is like a spring which holds the gem in place. In this style the gems appear to float, however it also has a tendency to attract more dirt in comparison to other setting styles.

Setting of gems and diamonds can be achieved through either of the styles mentioned above. Enroll in the 1year Diploma in Fine Jewellery Design from one of the best jewellery designing institutes in Bangalore to learn about the various jewellery setting styles.

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The process of setting gemstones and diamonds in Jewellery

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